Online Wrap-Up: Part 2

The rhetoric of food is more than just words or language. Its about communicating a variety of ideas. Each of these pieces, whether it be recipes, podcasts, Tasty videos, annotated bibliographies, or reviews, all have a reason for existing. It’s because the author wanted to share those ideas that they had. And there’s always a reason for why the author wants to share these things. That’s why we have to look beyond just what is written and look at the context, the history of both the author and the time they lived in, as well as the audience he wants to speak to. By looking at these things, we can see why a piece of work is so successful (or not). That’s why it’s important for us to be able to communicate with each other so we can share in these experiences.

For some people, they write because they want to show the disparity between certain groups of people. For me, I found a photo essay that demonstrated how different school lunches can be across the world. For other people, they may want to share something that their mother cooked since it brings back so many wonderful memories for them. Sometimes, these recipes have been passed down for an even longer time. All of these things tell us about each other as people, and with the written word, these experiences can last for a very long time.

Online Wrap-Up: Part 1

The assigned reading that I most enjoyed would definitely have to be “A Guide to Venezuela Arepas.” As I am very interested in online content/media, I found this piece to be a joy to read and just see the animations that must have taken hours to make. The commentary was also humorous, making it easy to digest. There are so many versions of the arepas, and it made me understand that each person makes it their own way. It reminds me of the Japanese savory pancake, okonomiyaki, because like arepas, okonomiyaki is also a dish that is made “your own way.” It was also once a staple, back when Japan was still struggling after World War II. Since reading, the article, it has made me interested in trying out the arepa, and that’s the kind of work that I want to be able to create. I want to make something that gets other people curious about Japanese food and culture so they can try it out for themselves.

The favorite reading that I have chosen for myself would definitely have to be “Rice, Noodle, Fish” by Matt Goulding. Matt Goulding has such great narrative voice as he describes his travels and naturally, as an award winning writer, he is great at describing experiences with food. I didn’t expect for him to make me care about okonomiyaki, as much as I did, but he told Fernando Lopez’s story with such great detail that it made me care. Lopez was pretty much a nobody, an outsider from Guatemala in Japan, until he found his way to an apprenticeship under an okonomiyaki chef. And even being released from his apprenticeship didn’t mean he was successful immediately. He had to struggle to build his top-selling restaurant in Hiroshima. Matt Goulding tells stories about food that I had never read before, and I absolutely love his writing, so check out his books or the website he contributes to, Roads & Kingdoms.

A Eulogy for The Don

Lined up and ready to order

It’s Sunday, 10 minutes before noon when Don Japanese Food Truck opens and finally begins to take orders. The line has already formed, with about 15 people already in front of me. Within 5 minutes, another 5 people have joined their friends in front of me, and another 20 have arranged themselves behind me. As soon as the clock strikes 12, the orders begin and after 10 minutes of opening, I have at last arrived at the window to order. The owner, Edward Sumner, greets me with a “Good afternoon, soldier,” as he always has and I make the order I usually get, “The Karaage.”

Since opening in the fall of 2015, Don has gained a wild following, frequently selling out early. Their hours would shift from the 12-8 pm they originally planned to realistically 12-5 pm at their old location on 28th and Guadalupe. Within a year, they left their original location due to the landowner increasing the rent and moved to behind the University Coop where their hours are now a short 12-3 pm.

A picture of the menu right before it fell to its demise

The menu originally was a shorter list of 5 rice bowls, growing into the menu most people know today with 8 rice bowls alongside an assortment of add-ins, including tempura fish cake, fish katsu, veggie croquette, and shrimp fry. The menu caters to all sorts of people with different diets as a variety of meats are represented (or lack thereof). Here lays the final menu preserved for the rest of the world to see.


The Food

The Don ($5)

The namesake of the truck as it is the quintessential pork cutlet rice bowl. It is the Don team’s number one recommendation for newcomers to Japanese cuisine. The succulent pork is encased in a panko crust that has a satisfying crunch.

Ingredients: Breaded fried pork cutlet, special sauce, (spicy) mayonnaise, dried seaweed, lettuce, rice, ginger on the side

The Chicken ($5)

Next up on the menu is a different kind of protein, chicken. Unlike “The Don,” the chicken is instead pan-seared and topped with fried shallots to add some texture to the rice bowl rather than the panko crust that some of the other rice bowls feature. Some sweetness comes from the teriyaki sauce that is drizzled onto the chicken at the end.

Ingredients: Pan-seared chicken, fried shallots, teriyaki sauce, (spicy) mayonnaise, dried seaweed, lettuce, rice, ginger on the side

The Veggie King ($5)

The option for those who aren’t keen animal-eaters or just want to try something different. The rice bowl features tofu which has been dusted with starch and then fried for crispness. The tofu’s insides remain soft and sweet which is unlike the saltier and heavier bowls on the menu.

Ingredients: Fried agedashi tofu, fried shallots, teriyaki sauce, (spicy) mayonnaise, dried seaweed, a bed of lettuce, rice, ginger on the side

The Beef ($7)

A rice bowl for the beef lovers out there. The hearty beef has a teriyaki flair alongside the freshness of the lettuce. Each bite of the ground beef packs a sweet but spicy punch in addition to the already very spicy mayonnaise. This bowl in particular is unlike most Japanese beef bowls as beef bowls in Japan typically feature shaved beef instead.

Ingredients: Teriyaki seasoned ground beef, (spicy) mayonnaise, dried seaweed, a bed of lettuce, rice, ginger on the side

The Pork Belly ($9)

Don’s most expensive rice bowl before the “Chef’s Special” came into the picture. “The Pork Belly” features the fatty and juicy belly of a pig. As it is braised, the meat is extremely soft and tender compared to the other pork rice bowl, “The Don.”

Ingredients: Marinaded pork belly, special sauce, dried seaweed, a bed of lettuce, rice, ginger on the side

The Karaage ($6)

Otherwise known as “Japanese Fried Chicken,” this used to be a side dish until adding rice to the side dish for an extra dollar became so commonplace that it was added as a rice bowl. The outside is coated in starch and then deep-fried for maximum crispness, sealing in the juicy and tender chicken thigh. Each piece is a delightful surprise as they all have a unique texture due to being cut and sized slightly differently.

Ingredients: Fried chicken thigh, special sauce, (spicy) mayonnaise, dried seaweed, a bed of lettuce, rice, ginger on the side

The Blue Ocean ($8)

A rice bowl with a mysterious name that was added to the menu to satisfy the hunger of those who prefer a more briny flavor profile. The protein featured in this dish is 4 large shrimp fried in panko breadcrumbs. The crispy outside contrasts the soft and juicy shrimp on the inside.

Ingredients: Breaded fried shrimp, special sauce, (spicy) mayonnaise, dried seaweed, a bed of lettuce, rice, ginger on the side

Chef’s Special: Fatty Tuna Bowl ($11)

The only rice bowl on their menu that does not feature a protein that has been cooked and instead has the refreshing taste of raw minced tuna. Above the tuna lays an egg that has been pouched for additional umami once it has been popped. The little bits of caviar add an interesting texture as they roll about and explode with intense briny flavor as they are consumed.

Ingredients: Raw minced tuna, onsen egg, sprouts, caviar, wasabi, house-shoyu sauce, rice


“All Good Things Must Come to an End?”

With the completion of first draft of this photo essay came unexpected and sad news. The Don team had announced on Facebook that the food truck was closing for good on April 30th. The comments section was filled with many distraught patrons’ posts, and the announcement was shared over 150 times with over 800 sad Facebook reacts.

A fraction of what was to come at the very end

The day after the announcement, hundreds of loyal patrons showed up to eat at Don one last time with the line wrapping around the entire lot dedicated to the food trucks. The people who lined up before the food truck had even opened waited up to 3 hours just to get their hands on a rice bowl that had satisfied so many one last time. Until the very end, they tried their best to stay true to the message they had written on their menu originally:

Philosophy: To provide authentic Japanese food at the most reasonable price, without sacrificing customer satisfaction, expediency, depth of flavor or love!

Don had evolved over time to overcome the struggles they have had before. From the original cramped food truck where they frequently had to restock in the middle of their operating hours to the larger food trailer that existed in a far more convenient location behind the University Coop, they had always tried to maintain the same quality. The portions have always been generous for a meal that is below the cost of other restaurants and food trucks in Austin. Because of this, they have had troubles with the demands which exceed the typical food truck, and some customers have complained that the wait is now far too long for a lunch from Don to be worth it. Despite this, Sumner and his team have always gone above and beyond to meet this philosophy and make their patrons happy even with the wait times increasing from a short 15 minutes to sometimes an hour over the past year with the occasional free add-ins and  cracking a joke once in a while with their customers. Prior to closing, they have hinted at opening a restaurant, a dream of the Don team. I hope that’s the case as they are already sorely missed.

A portion of this photo essay was used on a Facebook page that I help run, JPop Dallas.

Genre Conventions of Photo Essays

“Photo essays”are a bit of an interesting genre, as they do not always feature text despite having essay in their name. Instead, photos become the main focus for the author to use to convey some kind of idea. In my five photo essays I’ve chosen, they all feature varying levels of text, but they all have photos.

Sources:

A Worldwide Day’s Worth of Food
This is what school lunches look like around the world
Photo Essay: Learning About Olive Oil With California Olive Ranch.

How Not to Live: A Photo Essay on State Fair Food.
Japan: A Food Photo Essay

Always:

Photos:
Photos are a must for the photo essay genre. They are featured in all 5 of the sources I have listed above. Their arrangement just might be different and may have the text formatted around it, such as the slideshows in “A Worldwide Day’s Worth of Food” and “This is what school lunches look like around the world,” or just have them in-body as the reader scrolls downwards on the website.

Have a theme:
Each of the texts I have picked have a general theme that the author has chosen to put them together as a collection. It could be daily eating habits, school lunches, olive oil, State Fair food, or just Japan, which the authors have chosen to do in the above sources. There is not just a senseless arrangement of pictures.

Convey an idea or illicit emotion:
The reason for this arrangement is that the author is trying to give a sense of what is going on with their theme. For example, TIME’s “A Worldwide Day’s Worth of Food” (USA) shows some levels of disparity between cultures, and similarly, Independent’s “This is what school lunches look like around the world” (UK) shows how people should be concerned how their children or eating compared to other countries. Some may just be purely comedic, like “How Not to Live: A Photo Essay on State Fair Food.”

Sometimes:

Text:
The amount of text may vary for each photo essay, to the point that a photo might not even have a caption, leaving the interpretation up to the viewer. This is the case with “Photo Essay: Learning About Olive Oil With California Olive Ranch,” but not the case for the rest of the texts which always have text with the photo. “Japan: A Food Photo Essay” notably features no introduction and has very short captions.

Slideshow:
Of the sources, 3/5 of them actually show the photos in a slideshow with captions alongside the photo. Thinking about it, I feel as though I’ve treated the work I’ve done for Jpop Dallas to be like photo essays, but I wonder if anyone else would think of it as being like a photo essay according to my list of characteristics?

Online or in print:
“A Worldwide Day’s Worth of Food” is actually only an excerpt of “What I Eat: Around the World in 80 Diets,” showing that photo essays can be in print too.

Michael’s Mentor Text

D’Aluisio, Faith. Menzel, Peter. “A Worldwide Day’s Worth of Food – Photo Essays.”
    Time. Time Inc., 23 May 2016. Web. 21 Mar. 2017.

 

Writer D’Alusio and photographer Menzel, whom have had their work presented at the Nobel Peace Center, display the eating habits from around the world from a variety of people in this photo essay. These people include veterans, the sickly, and fast food workers in the United States to acrobats in China to housemakers in Yemin to camel brokers in Egypt and more. Their goal is to show one of the basic necessities for living for humans to allow the readers of Time, whom may have more luxuries in life, to see what other people, who might be less fortunate, eat. It can let the reader also know that other people may be eating the same thing they are eating.

 

The content is done in a slideshow format, so it’s easy to associate each body of text with a given photo. Within the body of text, D’Alusio starts off describing the subject, their location, and their caloric intake. Following is the detailed description of their meals throughout the day with the format of breakfast, lunch, dinner, and possibly something the subject in the picture has throughout the day. In some cases, due to the subject’s lifestyle and work, they may instead have “WHILE SHEPHERDING” instead of lunch or “EARLY MEAL” instead of breakfast, showing that not everyone lives by the same type of schedule.  For each time of day, the list of food even describes the exact proportioning. After the description of food, D’Alusio gives the reasons behind the diet of each of the subjects which are usually accounts provided by the subject.

 

Menzel’s photography provides something beyond what the text can show. The photos show the variety of food and the types of people consuming this food that can’t easily be seen through just words. Some spreads of food are smaller. Some are not even shown in the kitchen, and instead are in a studio or out in the field. Having the photography and text together gives the reader a greater sense of what it means to eat in their country with their livelihood. Some people are not out in the field but sitting on a wheelchair instead. It works well because of the extensive detail in the text and the photos that allow a greater sense of reliability to the reader. I am interested in doing work similar to this just because it is so detailed, showing the research of the authors, and also because the photography demonstrates some storytelling as well. Both elements are crucial to the overall story that the photo essay is trying to get at, which is “A Worldwide Day’s Worth of Food.”

My Research Topic

It took a while but I believe I can settle on a topic that I truly am interested in. I wasn’t certain until I talked with Thea, but I really feel like it would be interesting to compare the recipes for what people consider to be the “top” foods of Osaka and how they vary across regions, even if some of the opinions are from blogs or videos. Some of the foods that people really like can be found in these lists:

http://www.withhusbandintow.com/foods-to-eat-in-osaka/

https://triplelights.com/blog/10-foodsmust-tryosaka-91

Most notably, I would love to take a look at okonomiyaki (Japanese savory pancake), takoyaki (battered octopus balls), and karaage (fried chicken). I remember the occasion where I walked down a single street in Osaka and every minute, there would be another place selling their own variation of takoyaki or karaage. Similarly, there are many variations on recipes found on the internet as well as well known cookbooks such as Shizuo Tsuji’s Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art which has adapted recipes for cooking in America and Tadashi Ono’s Japanese Soul Cooking, which has recipes from “Tokyo and beyond”. I am also interested in Japanese cookbooks which have been translated rather than written in English first. There is one additional book I’ve found that is interestingly published in both English and Japanese within a single book called Recipes of Japanese Cooking by Yuko Fujita. There is even a documentary called “Wa-shoku ~Beyond Sushi~” which details the westernization of some of these Japanese dishes.

I really would love to see how recipes have changed across regions because I know that I had to adapt my own recipe based on what I could find at HEB.

The only thing I’m not really sure about is if I should stick to those three foods or do less/more. Maybe upon further look at the material.

My Research Update

Continuing with the theme of Japanese food, I decided that I wanted to look at some of the history of Japanese food and how they developed into the modern day forms that we know (ramen, sushi, fried chicken, etc). However, I have to do more research to see exactly what materials are available in English. What little I do know is that Osaka is generally considered the “food capital” of Japan, and there is even a saying that Osaka is “bringing ruin upon oneself by extravagance in food.” I wanted to narrow down the idea even further to how Osaka became the center for “Japanese fried food” but I’ve hit a few dead ends in searching specifically about fried food and also pieces on Osaka specifically.

There is one book, “Sushi and Beyond: One Family’s Remarkable Journey Through the Greatest Food Nation on Earth,” by Michael Booth that I found via Google that seems to be about Japanese food in general. Michael Booth seems to be an accomplished writer for a variety of magazines and newspapers from what I can find, but I don’t really know what else could possibly make him a “qualified” writer. Is just being published in a magazine or newspaper enough?

Further searches on the UT libraries search engine seemed to show that looking for “Japan cuisine” and “Japanese food” will net me almost different results for the top 5. Is anyone else experimenting with their search queries? “Japanese food” seemed to give me, on average, older books in the top 5 while “Japan cuisine” gave me some results post-2000. I find it interesting that just synonyms can make a large difference.

Karaage (Japanese Fried Chicken)

Studying abroad in Japan naturally led me to trying out new foods. In Osaka, Japan, I discovered the wonders of Japanese fried food. Within the bustling Namba ward of Osaka, there were these succulent pieces of chicken with a slight crisp on the outside that were ever so pleasant to bite into.  This Japanese fried chicken, or karaage, left a deep impression in my mind. Never had I ever had such juicy chicken in my entire life, and it took less than 15 minutes to cook after dredging it. Most people would imagine fried chicken as being salty, but karaage was different. While it does have some saltiness, the lemon helps cut straight through that flavor. The chicken thigh itself was tender which contrasted the perfect crispy fry on the outside. When I had this chicken, I knew I wanted to try to reproduce it at home.

The best part of karaage is the ease of preparation and the scale at which it can be produced. A week’s worth of protein can be prepared and served with just rice. For college students, this can be especially desirable once they have learned to fry food. Karaage is notably also included in many lunch boxes sold in Japan and a staple of a loving mother’s homemade lunch box as well.


The Recipe

Adapted from Namiko Chen’s recipe
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 15 minutes
Serves: 3-4 people

Ingredients

  • 1 lb. chicken thigh without bones
  • Sea salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • ¼ cup corn starch (potato starch, or katakuriko, gives a crunchier coating)
  • ¼ cup all-purpose flour
  • Oil (high smoke point oils like vegetable, corn, sunflower, and peanut work)
  • Lemon wedges

Marinade

  • 1 inch ginger
  • 8 garlic cloves
  • 1 tbsp. soy sauce
  • 1 tbsp. sake (or dry sherry)
  • 1 tsp. sugar

Tools

  • 8 inch knife
  • A cutting board
  • 2 bowls for mixing
  • Plastic wrap
  • A half wok or pot (woks are safer!)
  • Tongs
  • Grater
  • Plate with paper towel
  • Thermometer for frying (strongly recommended)
  • Garlic presser (optional)

Marinating the Chicken

1: Begin by cutting the chicken thigh into pieces that are about 2 inches each. Make sure that all of the pieces are the same size so that the fry will be even. Feel free to remove any amount of fat to preference at this step.

2: Place the chicken into a bowl and season with sea salt and black pepper.

3: Grate the ginger with the grater and mince the garlic. A garlic presser or using the flat side of the knife to crush the garlic is fine.

4: Combine the ginger, garlic, and other marinade ingredients in the bowl with the chicken. Ensure that all of the chicken has some of the marinade coating it.

5: Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let it rest in the refrigerator for at least an hour. Longer is better, because the marinade will soak into the chicken.

Frying the Chicken

1: Get a wok or pot and put about an inch of oil in it. Less is possible but requires moving the chicken more to get an even fry for a longer duration.

2: Set the stove on high, heating up the oil to about 360°F.

3: While waiting for the oil to heat up, the starch and flour can be mixed together in one bowl and then added to the bowl with the chicken. The mix does not have to be perfectly even as it results in different textures for each piece.

4: Check if the oil is ready. This can be done by putting in a bit of the flour-starch mixture and seeing if it bubbles or by using your thermometer to check the temperature.

5: Put about 3-6 pieces of chicken into the oil slowly. Avoid overcrowding the wok or pot. Putting too much chicken into the oil will lower its temperature resulting in soggier chicken.

6: Cook the chicken for about 90 seconds while maintaining the temperature. More chicken can be added if the temperature of the oil needs to be lowered. If the oil is smoking, the temperature is definitely too hot and must be turned down. If there are absolutely no bubbles coming up to the surface, the temperature is too low.

7: Remove the chicken when it is a light golden brown color and put it onto the plate with the paper towel. Do this for the rest of the chicken before frying a second time.

8: Fry the chicken for a second time for about 45 seconds or until it is a nice golden brown color. Place back onto another plate with a paper towel when done.

9: Serve the chicken with a wedge of lemon.

The Rhetoric of Recipes: What’s in a recipe?

The typical recipe contains at least a list of ingredients with their measurements and instructions on how to prepare the dish. What is a recipe for then if not just those two items though? A question posed by Gopnik is “What’s the recipe for?” A recipe can mean much more than just a simple instruction book. According to Gopnik, it can be “self-revelation.” The recipe can have an introduction detailing the story or the history behind the food itself, the discovery of the food by the author, or even just a reason for why they chose to write the recipe. For example, Fisher describes in “The Art of Eating” that minestrone is “probably the most satisfying soup in the world for people who are hungry.”  Interestingly, two aspects that Fisher’s minestrone recipe is missing is the number of servings and the preparation and cook time that many other recipes have such as V’nut- Beyond Redemption’s “Japanese Chicken Karaage (Fried Chicken).” Her recipe lacks an introduction, but includes the total time (1hr 20mins), serving size, yield size, and a lot of commentary such as “Don’t put only a few pieces,” and “If you see bubbles as soon as you put a wooden chop stick into the oil, this is too hot.” So another answer could be that maybe the recipe or cook book is that it “should supply the rules, the deep structure—a fixed, underlying grammar that enables you to use all the recipes you find” as stated by Gopnik. Recipes come in all shapes and sizes, with some lacking an introduction, the time to cook, or serving size, and maybe someone can try to write a recipe without measurements or instructions. In general, a recipe seems to just talk about the preparation of a food.

With all recipe writing though, there’s more than just the form. There’s also the content in the form of a recipe, which is written by the author for a given audience. As in Fisher’s minestrone recipe, she wants to write for an audience that is hungry and wants to make soup. An interview by the New York Times in 1990 states that while many others were writing about “the struggle for power and security,” she instead chose to write about food. Her reason for writing is instead that “our three basic needs, for food and security and love are so mixed and mingled and entwined that we cannot straightly think of one without the others.” It is a basic need and a love for it that makes her want to write about food. It’s a combination of the author’s experiences and what they want that a given text exists.

Brown and her book, “Good and Cheap,” was made with another idea in mind. Brown wanted to write about dishes that could be made with “$4 or less,” showing that her target audience could be beginners or people who are on a budget, and it was published during a time where the American people were still struggling from the downturn of the economy. There’s context for why the recipe exists. With the idea of “$4 or less” and that the book should be freely distributed, she had hoped that more people could eat well despite the many struggles of the middle class and below. Brown shows that experience of living in that time by writing such recipes, showing her expertise.

So a great recipe does more than just state a dish and how to make it with a given list of ingredients. V’nut- Beyond Redemption’s recipe may have more features of a recipe with the serving size, cook time, and yield size, but it does not hold the same strength as recipes that are found in Fisher’s or Brown’s books.  A great recipe brings you in as the author displays their expertise through storytelling and giving you reason to cook a recipe. It’s through their vivid imagery or being able to make it relatable, such as recipe writing for the downturn of the economy, that can convince the reader to want to consume what they are reading about. To be able to connect the reader with the content within a given context is a great success for the author.